India, late 1800s
Vest
Silk velvet with couched gold and silver wrapped thread, embroidery, sequins, simulated jewels; silk lining
19 1/2 x 16 inches
Gift of The Reverend and Mrs. Van S. Merle-Smith, Jr., Mr. and Mrs. Fowler Merle-Smith, and Mrs. Nancy Stover, 1991.
1991.004.014

In the nineteenth century, young Indian courtiers from wealthy families wore richly decorated vests such as this one for ceremonial court occasions. Such garments were often made from the choicest fabrics and embellished with elaborate embroidery and jewels. The style of embroidery on this vest is known as zardozi. It features raised patterns created by stitching gold- and silver-wrapped thread to velvet, a technique probably introduced to India by the Portuguese during the Renaissance. Although gold was occasionally used in folk embroideries, it was primarily a symbol of wealth and status among India’s aristocracy.